Hidden in a valley overlooking the parish of Seixal on Madeira’s North coast, Chão da Ribeira is a perfect place for reconnecting with nature. We fondly refer to this region as “The Sanctuary,” a refuge from the fast-paced lifestyle found in the south of the island. In this article, I’ll focus on Chão da Ribeira as I currently live here, but the sentiments, traditions and history of such rural regions are shared among many similar locations on Madeira Island.
Chão da Ribeira is a small valley surrounded by towering cliffs, which are covered in lush, UNESCO-protected Laurissilva forest. Following one of the many of the trails up from the valley will lead you on a winding journey through nature to the enchanting forest of Fanal. A short 20-minute walk down from the valley, and you’ll be relaxing on the incredibly scenic black sand beach of Seixal. Chão da Ribeira is uniquely positioned to be a hiker’s dream but also a great location for exploring the coastal beaches and natural pools of the North.
Chão da Ribeira is traditionally an important farming region for the residents of Seixal. Historically, the residents would walk up from Seixal to tend to their potatoes, vegetables, and crops in the valley (many still do). Throughout the years, many lived in Chão da Ribeira itself as well. Cows and goats are also a common sight up in Chão da Ribeira. The temperate conditions at 350-meters above sea-level mean that this fertile land receives plentiful rainfall and sunshine to yield rich bounty for the village throughout the year.
This tradition of farming in Chão da Ribeira meant that many of the farmers built a small agricultural shed or cottage known as a “Palheiro”. They were used to house livestock and to store potatoes and other farming supplies. Built from large basalt stones, these “palheiros” provided insulation to keep crops cool in the summer and dry and temperate during the winter. I’ve been inside a “Palheiro” in Chão da Ribeira storing thousands of potatoes!
While farming in the modern era is still a valuable resource for many, it was a necessity in times not so long ago. The cities and more favorable, easier terrains were often areas for aristocratic or privileged families.
Beyond the fertile terraces and awe-inspiring surroundings, there is another attraction in Chão da Ribeira. Come the weekend, local families and visitors alike gather supplies and head up into the valley. There are many free places open to the public to have a barbecue, many of which are old ‘palheiros’ with impressive views of the mountains covered in the green of the Laurissilva Forest.
For those lucky enough to have a friend with a “Palheiro”, Saturday and Sunday can be a time for barbecues, sharing a few drinks, reconnecting with nature, and slowing down to enjoy the pace of life in the North.
Many of these rural traditions began because people had no choice but to build their houses inside the domains of their family farmlands or other small lands they had inherited" With that, a culture of rural living in picturesque places and hidden valleys. It was common for community members to share good resources and have meals in places like Chão da Ribeira. During the Panelo, a community festival that takes place each January, pork and vegetables are eaten. In June, everyone comes together to eat tuna and potatoes.
Chão da Ribeira is not the only place on the island offering outstanding views and facilities for a great barbecue or family get-together. As you drive around Madeira, your attention will be captured by all of the small “palheiros” and cottages scattered amongst the hillsides. We’ve rented or been invited to a number of incredible getaway locations on Madeira.
Achadas da Cruz is a fajã in the West, where you can take a cable car down to a small coastal town composed of little palheiros, by the sea. Here you can listen to the sound of waves crashing as you fall asleep. Ribeira Funda is another small village nestled above the tunnels on the North Coast of Madeira. Here you have one of the most incredible views back down towards Seixal and Ponta Delgada. You can also enjoy plenty of mountain vibes in the hills of Santo da Serra, São Jorge e Santana. The truth is that there are amazing weekend getaways all over Madeira.
The tradition of gathering family and friends in the mountains for a barbecue or picnic is one of my favorites on the island. It’s a chance to enjoy the classic local foods like espetada, fresh bread and local produce, but also to come together with friends and family. When you combine that with the natural beauty of Madeira, everyone has a chance to breathe and reset in what can often be a stressful and overwhelming world. "Ir à Serra", meaning “going to the mountains”, is a must, once a year, at least, for most local families. It’s a therapy that values all of the important things in life. Foods we love, people we love, and places we love.
