One of the first things you associate with Madeira is Madeira wine. Now, I am no expert, but I do know that, like all wines, there are many different styles and ages of Madeira wine, each of which significantly affects the taste. I also know that we enjoy drinking it on its own as a chilled aperitif, pairing it with a chocolate dessert, or even better, with cheese. My husband and I are big fans of Madeira Wine, so we decided to learn more about its production and arranged a visit to Quinta das Vinhas in Estreito da Calheta.
The vineyard is located on the southwest coast of the island near Calheta, set on a hillside with breathtaking views across the Atlantic Ocean. This family-run estate organically produces a wide variety of grapes. Situated on the grounds of a 17th-century house that has been in the same family for generations, the vineyard also offers accommodation in the renovated house and 15 cottages, two swimming pools, and a restaurant. It is much more than just a vineyard.
As soon as we arrived, the peaceful and tranquil atmosphere was immediately noticeable. The quiet, combined with the sound of birds, created a serene and calming energy that surrounded Quinta das Vinhas.
We were offered drinks and a seat in the gardens while we waited for our tour guides. The main house, located in the middle of the vineyard, is full of charm and character, with the restoration preserving all the original features. After soaking in the serene atmosphere, we were introduced to Catarina, a member of the family who owns the vineyard, along with Isabel and Ema. Within minutes of meeting them, it was very clear how passionate each of them was about wine production at Quinta das Vinhas.
We started our tour with a leisurely walk through the vineyards, accompanied by our three hosts and the family dog, who clearly enjoyed life on the plantation. The vineyard at Quinta das Vinhas was initially planted as an experimental vineyard by the Madeira Wine Institute in the 1970s. It boasts over 70 different grape varieties. The tour was informal yet very informative, providing insights into the different grape varieties, the harvesting process, and the challenges faced in their commitment to organic grape production. Learning about the vineyard's dedication to organic methods instilled a greater respect for the final product. The tour was especially enjoyable due to its laid-back nature and the lovely people who made the experience very relaxed and pleasant.
In May 2023, in partnership with Justino's Winehouse, the vineyard launched its first wine. ‘Fanal’ is the first organic table wine produced in Madeira, made with 100% Verdelho grapes from Quinta das Vinhas. The production is very small (1980 bottles), and the wine is mineral on the nose, with white and tropical fruit notes and hints of melon and pear.
Following our meander through the grapevines and newfound understanding of organic wine production, it was time to visit the Bago Restaurant, which overlooks the vineyard. We had a table set on the terrace with a selection of meats, cheese, and chocolate, each accompanied by a different Madeira wine from Justino’s. Our three guides explained why each wine was paired with specific foods. The wines, of different ages, tasted very distinct, but each was incredibly good.
Although we didn’t have a full meal in the restaurant, the setting was lovely, and the food served was a fusion with a local twist. Bago is a place where meat and fish eaters, vegans, and those who have not yet made up their minds can gather and enjoy a meal, as well as sample a wide selection of table wines made on the island.
Before we left, we had the chance to explore the 17th-century house and view the accommodation options. Each room was beautifully curated to provide a wonderful place to relax and unwind. It almost felt more like a retreat than a hotel! We both loved the idea of staying at the property for a complete unwind.
The tour was a really enjoyable afternoon in an idyllic environment, among very passionate people who are clearly dedicated to continuing the heritage of the vineyard for many years to come.
Tracy Sullivan
