What can I say about Reid’s Palace Hotel? Words will probably fail me, but I will try to describe a hotel that is very much more than a place to stay; it is an experience from the minute you enter the reception to the moment you, regrettably, have to leave.
During our previous visit to Madeira, we heard much about the renowned Reid’s Palace—a landmark that’s hard to miss, perched majestically on a cliff overlooking Funchal. Ask anyone to name a hotel synonymous with the island, and Reid’s is almost certain to be their answer.
However, I cannot talk about Reid’s without mentioning the hotel's history, which dates back to 1891. In the mid-1800s, Madeira became a favoured winter getaway for those seeking relief from the cold, wet weather of Northern Europe. The luxurious Reid’s Palace was the brainchild of William Reid, a Scotsman who envisioned creating a grand hotel on Madeira's warm shores. He bought the clifftop land and built an elegant hotel in the Belle Époque style. In the following years, Reid’s hosted many illustrious visitors, including Empress Sissi, Austria’s Empress Zita, Princess Stephanie of Monaco, King Edward VII, Roger Moore, and most notably, Winston Churchill, who spent his time in Madeira writing his memoirs and painting. In his honour, Reid’s named a suite after him—now known as the Churchill Suite, which remains the finest room in the house.
My husband and I arrived in a rental car and drove to the front doors, where we were warmly greeted by a member of Reid’s team. Valet parking is included in the service, and our car was promptly whisked away, with our luggage handled by the concierge. We then made our way to the hotel reception. This is where the grandeur of Reid’s is first felt—and I assure you, it won’t be the last! The walkway to the reception is framed by an archway that opens onto a terrace, with high ceilings, white walls, sophisticated, elegant decor, and a gentle ocean breeze flowing through the hotel, giving the impression of stepping onto a movie set from a bygone era.
Walking through hallways panelled in rich mahogany and passing the historic reception area, now preserved as a charming relic, we arrived at our room—a truly breathtaking space, among the finest we’ve ever experienced. The bedroom featured walls draped in elegant fabric, accented by glass details, mirrors, and sumptuous bed linens, all opening onto a private balcony with sweeping ocean views. We felt incredibly fortunate to stay amid such luxury, well beyond our expectations.
We wanted to make the most of our stay and enjoy everything the hotel had to offer. Our plan included dining at Reid’s Michelin-starred restaurant, enjoying drinks on the terrace, relaxing by the ocean, learning about the hotel’s history, and having a picnic in the hotel gardens.
Our visit to the William Restaurant was extraordinary; we’ve written a separate article with more details. It was a truly special evening—a seven-course tasting menu with wine pairings at a table overlooking the city of Funchal and the harbour. The ambience had an Art Deco elegance that perfectly matched the hotel’s character.
After breakfast at the poolside restaurant, we spent the morning unwinding by the ocean on Reid’s private bathing deck. The poolside area is pleasant but feeling the ocean spray and hearing the waves crash against the cliff’s edge was phenomenal. The table service for refreshments made the experience perfect.
That afternoon, we had arranged a picnic in the gardens at 4 p.m., one of the highlights for both of us during our two-week stay in Madeira. The picnic setting was idyllic—a blanket was laid out in the gardens, adorned with cushions, wicker baskets, ice buckets, and various platters of sweet and savoury treats, all prepared by Reid’s impeccable team. They poured our first glass of champagne before leaving us to enjoy our privacy. There couldn’t have been a more romantic setting, with the sound of the ocean, shade from the palms, and the beautiful surrounding gardens. We spent hours at our Reid’s picnic, savouring a moment we’ll never forget.
As dusk fell, we headed to the hotel terrace, a popular gathering place for guests both before and after dinner or for the renowned afternoon tea that Reid’s is famous for. By day, the ocean view stretches as far as the eye can see; by night, the dark ocean is lit only by an occasional passing boat. It is the perfect place to end the day and reflect on the special moments we were having.
Besides the Michelin-starred 'William,' aptly named after the founder, the hotel has three other restaurants. In addition to heated outdoor pools, guests have access to a tidal pool in the ocean, as well as a spa, sauna, and tennis courts. Yet, the gardens at Reid’s are truly remarkable; strolling along pathways enveloped by lush flora and palms while never losing sight of and sound of the ocean is an experience in itself.
We also enjoyed a guided tour around the hotel, gaining a deeper appreciation for Reid’s history and evolution. It was both fascinating and entertaining, showing how Reid’s respectfully honours its heritage while evolving to meet the needs of today’s travellers.
I mentioned that words might fail me in describing the Reid’s experience, and while I’ve done my best, I genuinely believe that words alone can’t convey the magic of this place. It’s something you simply have to experience yourself—and we couldn’t recommend it more highly.
Tracy Sullivan
