My wife and I had wanted to visit Porto Santo for some time, and this was to be a magical two nights spent on an island paradise just a short boat trip from the port of Funchal.
We boarded an early morning ferry that set sail across calm waters, reaching Porto Santo in two and a half hours. Choosing to upgrade our ticket to the premium lounge was a wise move, as the boat was extremely busy. Not only did this ensure a comfortable journey, but it also included food and drinks along the way.
Standing on the deck as we departed Funchal in darkness was a lovely start to the day. It offered a very different perspective, with the city lit by moonlight and streetlights, accompanied by the calm and silence of a city yet to awake.
As daylight lifted, Porto Santo soon became visible. The final 20 minutes of the journey ran parallel to the island’s white sandy beaches, resembling a picture postcard.
The town of Porto Santo is just a short drive (around five minutes) from the ferry terminal, as are many of the hotels on the island. We soon arrived and checked into our hotel, which, of course, was located on those same golden sandy beaches.
The hotel resembled something you might find on a Caribbean island – wooden floors in the reception, dusted with sandy footprints from barefoot guests or those wearing sandals making their way from beach to bedroom. The hotel had a beautiful outdoor pool area, but our first stop was the boardwalk. We made our way across it to feel the sand on our feet and listen to the crashing of waves as they lapped onto the golden beach that had brought us here.
The waters were warm, crystal clear, and shallow for quite some time, allowing us to walk out into the sea, feel the tide crash against us, let our shoulders drop, and soak in the tranquillity. From the moment we arrived, my wife and I felt relaxed – it truly felt like a trip back in time.
We share a passion for food, and Porto Santo offers a wide range of restaurants serving incredible seafood. But first, we had to try the bread known as Bolo do Caco, which is said to have been invented on the island. It's a unique garlic bread and an absolute delight – honestly, I could sit and eat it alone with a glass of wine and be a happy man!
Of course, we didn’t come to Porto Santo just for the garlic bread. We began our culinary experience at a beachside restaurant called Pé na Água. The location is perfect for catching the last rays of sunshine and watching the sunset. We enjoyed a cocktail on the terrace before heading inside for our first real taste of Porto Santo.
As lovers of seafood, we were delighted to find that our expectations were exceeded. The food was excellent, and the friendly service made the experience even better. Our first day in Porto Santo was over, and we couldn’t wait for the next one to begin.
Our hotel had an incredible spa, offering the usual range of treatments, but also something quite unique, which we both decided to try. We lay on a bed of sand and were fully submerged in warm sand, which supposedly helps circulation and relaxes the muscles. I have no idea about the science behind it, but I can tell you we both left feeling refreshed and ready for the day ahead!
Porto Santo is also home to a very special golf course designed by Seve Ballesteros. The landscape is spectacular, and the back nine offers some of the most breathtaking clifftop views on the island, along with some truly memorable holes.
The golf club has one of the best clubhouses I’ve visited. We had one of the best risottos we’ve ever eaten for lunch at the clubhouse restaurant, which sits elevated above the course and offers stunning views over the beaches in the distance.
After returning to the hotel, we took a relaxing stroll along the beach. It’s one of the prettiest stretches of golden sand imaginable – so beautiful you could walk for miles and forget about the world you left behind.
That evening, we visited a restaurant located high above the town of Porto Santo. The Panorama restaurant is worth the 10-minute drive for the views alone, not to mention the chance to watch the sunset from an entirely different perspective. The restaurant is very popular, so I’d definitely recommend booking a table in advance to avoid disappointment.
The only problem with our visit to Porto Santo was that it ended too soon. I can’t recommend a visit highly enough. If you’re planning a trip to Madeira, please schedule a few days on Porto Santo into your itinerary.
This island is one of the most idyllic places we’ve ever visited, and we’ll definitely return… Hopefully for a little longer.
A week on Porto Santo would be good for the soul... We can’t wait to go back.
Andy Sullivan
