We visited Madeira last year and loved discovering the wild island scenery, as we traveled between volcanic ocean pools, dramatic green mountains, and clifftop Atlantic viewpoints. While we tried to tick off all the top sights, we didn’t manage to do it all – mainly because there’s always so much more to explore in this natural paradise. However, that meant we had a good excuse to return!
One of the things we were very excited about on this second trip was discovering more off-the-beaten-path hikes in Madeira, a passion we actually developed on the island. In particular, the PR17 Madeira trail was high on our bucket list. We’d heard it had similar views to the famous PR1 but with less people, and it didn’t disappoint! I think this is one of the best hikes in Madeira.
We woke up early and headed to Restaurante ‘Boca da Encumeada’ for 9 AM, where we parked the car and found the starting point of the trail. Guided hiking in Madeira is a popular option, so we also enlisted the help of a fantastic local guide named Margarida Meira. Our goal today was to reach Bica da Cana, a remarkable panoramic viewpoint that overlooks the São Vicente Valley.
Usually, the trail runs all the way to Lombo do Mouro, but when we visited, the only part of the trail that was open was the section from Encumeada to Bica da Cana. This didn’t affect our experience negatively at all – in fact, we got the feeling this is the most beautiful part of the trail anyway!
The first part of the PR17 Madeira trail followed a lush, overgrown levada, surrounded by dense greenery and forest; this was one of the most beautiful hikes we’ve done in Madeira so far! Along the way, we passed four stunning waterfalls and walked through at least two long tunnels. This whole first part of the trail is relatively flat and easy, so it’s a nice, relaxed start to the hike.
While trail conditions in Madeira are usually excellent, you always have to be aware of the recent weather. For example, when we were hiking PR17 Madeira, there had recently been heavy rainfall. This meant the path was muddier and slippier than usual – although totally manageable with good hiking shoes.
Because of the recent rain, the tunnels were slightly flooded. However, this added to the uniqueness of the trail. We made sure we had a headlamp and waterproof shoes, and then adventurously hopped, skipped, and jumped across the stones inside the tunnel. The water was pretty high, but we managed to avoid getting really wet!
Tip: We highly recommend having a guide for PR17; we really benefited from their help, especially in navigating these flooded tunnels. We also loved learning more about Madeira and its spectacular nature from a knowledgeable local!
Eventually, you’ll begin your incline uphill, where you ultimately reach a breathtaking path that straddles the ridge. It’s around 1,400 meters high at this part, so we could see over the entire valley on the left and across to the town of São Vicente far below on the right.
From here, we could also look back on the waterfalls we’d just passed; this gave us a great sense of achievement, knowing how far we’d come! At this point, we had barely seen anyone on the trail; for us, it was one of the most uncrowded and off-the-beaten-path hikes in Madeira, which makes it extra special.
Finally, we reached our goal of Bica da Cana, the most magical viewpoint at 1580 meters high. We were super lucky with the weather, with clear skies that allowed us to see as far as the two highest peaks of Madeira: Pico Ruivo and Pico do Areeiro.
A few wisps of lingering clouds from the morning’s fog added to the magical atmosphere, drifting across the green surrounding peaks. We felt like we were on top of the world!
We noticed this area is also accessible by car, so if you can’t do the PR17 Madeira trail for any reason, you could drive here directly as a great alternative sunrise spot to PR1. We imagine it would be much quieter!
From the final point of Pico da Cana, we arranged a taxi to bring us back to our car at the restaurant. However, if for any reason you’re unable to do this, you could just walk to the ridge and then turn around (making it an in-and-out walk). You’d miss out on seeing the views from the peak, but the views from the ridge are equally beautiful anyway.
All in all, the whole hike took us around 5-6 hours (13 KM long), but we took a lot of stops for photos, so we think you could do it in around 4 hours if necessary. We loved how peaceful the trail was; we barely saw anyone along the route.
We didn’t enjoy hiking PR17 Madeira any less because of the closure, as I think the open part of the hike is the most impressive anyway! When planning your hike, make sure to check the official Madeira website beforehand to check which routes are open.
Overall, hiking PR17 Madeira was one of the best parts of our trip! With its varied landscapes along the route, the trail offers the best of the island, from lush levadas and dense forests to dramatic ridges and panoramic viewpoints. We left feeling proud of what we’d achieved and eager to see more of this sensational part of the island.
Don’t miss out on one of the best hikes in Madeira!
