Madeira is well known as one of the best hiking destinations in Europe with lush forests, amazing coastal routes and scenic levada walks. While many hikers flock to the more popular southern and central regions of Madeira, the northern part of the island is one of the best regions for hiking. With steep valleys, sweeping views of the ocean, and a raw, untouched wilderness feel, northern Madeira's trails are perfect for those looking to explore beyond the popular routes. In this article, I’ll focus on three stunning trails in the north of Madeira: PR 15 – Vereda da Ribeira da Janela, PR 16 – Fajã do Rodrigues, and PR 21 – Caminho do Norte. Each trail offers something special, whether it’s serene valleys, ancient forests, or panoramic views.
PR15 - Vereda da Ribeira da Janela
Vereda da Ribeira da Janela is a 2.7 km trail of moderate difficulty, descending from the forested area above the town of Ribeira da Janela. You can choose to hike it downhill, uphill or as an out and back and do it both ways! Historically, the trail was a vital footpath connecting Curral Falso (Fanal) to the villages in the south, such as Calheta and Ponta do Sol, where locals carried essential goods. Beginning at regional road ER 209, this trail meanders through a scenic landscape that was once essential for the transport of wood, a key resource for the local population. Its historical significance adds depth to the beauty of the hike, providing a glimpse into the island's past.
The trail's picturesque scenery includes terraced agricultural fields supported by stone walls, where crops like potatoes, sweet potatoes, beans, and maize are grown, along with vineyards. As hikers make their way down, they are treated to views of houses scattered across the slopes, positioned between the mouth of the Ribeira da Janela stream. My favorite part of the trail is the view of the ocean from alongside an old, stone palheiro. The longest levada on the island, the Ribeira da Janela, flows through this area, adding to the charm of the landscape. The combination of history, agriculture, and natural beauty makes Vereda da Ribeira da Janela a captivating and rewarding trail.
PR 16 - Fajã do Rodrigues
Fajã do Rodrigues is another great hike that showcases the wild beauty of Madeira’s north. This moderate-level trail begins in the municipality of São Vicente, leading hikers into the heart of a dense valley, with towering cliffs and waterfalls.
The Levada Fajã do Rodrigues hike on Madeira Island takes you through some incredibly lush forest paths to many amazing waterfalls. The trail begins quietly beside the levada but quickly escalates with a number of dark tunnel passages. The final destination is an epic canyon, which hides multiple waterfalls.
The path follows along one of Madeira’s levadas, making for a relatively flat and accessible walk for much of the way. However, it does include a few narrow passages and tunnels, adding an adventurous element to the hike. Be sure to bring a flashlight or headlamp to navigate the darker sections.
The highlight of PR 16 is the breathtaking waterfall that greets hikers near the end of the trail. As you approach the waterfall, the sound of rushing water becomes louder, creating a sense of anticipation. The waterfall itself cascades down a sheer rock face, with mist rising from the base and creating a cool, refreshing atmosphere. The surrounding landscape feels almost prehistoric, with the combination of towering cliffs and dense vegetation. This trail offers a perfect blend of Madeira’s characteristic levada walk and the dramatic natural features that define the island’s northern region.
PR 21 - Caminho do Norte
Caminho do Norte is a more challenging hike but rewards adventurers with stunning views of both the island’s interior and coastline. The trail climbs steadily uphill, traversing old footpaths that were once used by locals to travel between settlements. The Caminho do Norte (Path of the North) takes hikers through a range of different landscapes, from terraced farmlands to laurel forests and rocky mountain paths, offering a sense of Madeira’s agricultural heritage alongside its natural beauty.
One of the most striking features of PR 21 is the panoramic view from higher altitudes. As you climb, the views of the northern coastline open up, revealing the deep blue of the Atlantic Ocean meeting the green slopes of the island. On clear days, you can see as far as Porto Santo, Madeira's sister island, on the horizon. This trail also offers a glimpse into rural life on the island, with small traditional villages dotting the landscape, their whitewashed houses and terraced fields creating a picturesque scene. While the hike is strenuous at points due to the elevation gain, the sense of accomplishment at the end is immense, especially after being treated to such incredible views along the way.
Hiking in the north of Madeira offers a rich and diverse experience, far removed from the more developed parts of the island. It’s easily my favorite place to hike on the island and one of the main reasons I now live in the north of Madeira. The trails of PR 15 – Vereda da Ribeira da Janela, PR 16 – Fajã do Rodrigues, and PR 21 – Caminho do Norte allow hikers to immerse themselves in the rugged, unspoiled nature of the region. Whether you're navigating through wide valleys, following levadas past waterfalls, or climbing high into the mountains for spectacular views, these hikes are sure to leave a lasting impression. Each trail highlights different aspects of Madeira’s northern landscape, from lush forests to dramatic coastal views, making it a must-visit for any adventurous traveler seeking an authentic connection with the island’s wild beauty.
