It was my very first day in Madeira, and what a way to begin: stepping into the world of fine dining in Madeira at Oxalis at Casa Velha do Palheiro. From the moment I arrived, the experience unfolded as a blend of history, hospitality, and a deep respect for sustainability that set the tone for an unforgettable night.
Getting to Casa Velha do Palheiro: A journey through time
The journey to Casa Velha do Palheiro felt almost like a passage through time. Nestled in the lush hills above Funchal, the road winds through forests and gardens before revealing the stately estate.
The 200-year-old manor house was originally commissioned by the 1st Conde Carvalhal, a visionary who created not only a residence but a legacy. Later, his great-nephew, António Leandro, the 2nd Conde, became renowned for the extravagant (rumoured to be quite wild) parties he hosted there, echoes of which can still be felt in the estate's atmosphere of elegance and celebration.
Madeiran hospitality at its finest
The reception was warm and personal, characteristic of Madeiran hospitality. A refreshing welcome drink, a few kind words, and an invitation to explore the property made me feel instantly at home.
Casa Velha is more than just a hotel; it is a living story, where manicured gardens, antique-filled rooms, and quiet corners offer both comfort and grandeur – a place you could escape to and easily hide away for a few nights.
Farm-to-Table Dining Done Right
What sets Oxalis apart is its kitchen garden. Here, vegetables, herbs, and fruits grow in abundance, forming the very foundation of Oxalis's philosophy. Chef Gonçalo Bita Bota and his team shared their passion for sourcing locally and sustainably.
They explained how Oxalis is not just another restaurant; it is a sustainable restaurant in Madeira, where nearly everything comes directly from their own farm or trusted local farmers. Only seasonal ingredients make their way to the menu, ensuring that every dish truly represents the essence of seasonal cuisine in Madeira.
Menus shift throughout the year to follow the rhythm of the seasons, making every visit unique and authentically connected to the island's natural cycles.
The Oxalis Tasting Menu Experience
Oxalis is proud to be recognised by the prestigious Michelin Guide, joining their list of recommended restaurants in 2025. As one of the best restaurants in Funchal, I was excited for the meal to begin.
Our evening at Oxalis began in the library at Casa Velha do Palheiro. Surrounded by shelves of old books and the soft glow of lamplight, we were introduced to the evening's menu – a stunning tray of starters, including smoked tuna belly, brioche, and mushrooms. It was an intimate and sophisticated prelude to what would come next.
From there, we moved to the dining room, where the setting was both refined and relaxed. We sat at the counter of the open kitchen, met the team, and began our meal with a beautifully presented cured trout accompanied by fennel ice cream – a playful dish that was a great introduction.
Highlights from the Menu
We then made our way to the table to enjoy the rest of our Oxalis tasting menu:
• Bonito with red peppers and watermelon
• Parrotfish with fennel and miso hollandaise
• Scarlet prawn with sea urchin bisque
• Quail with apricots
• Mandarin sphere for dessert
Everything was well executed and plated perfectly, with a focus on seafood throughout the menu that showcased the Atlantic's bounty.
Wine Pairing: Discovering Madeira's Renowned Wines
Though I wasn't planning on a wine pairing that night, the staff's enthusiasm was irresistible. Madeira is world-famous for its wines, and their knowledge and warmth made the experience feel natural rather than formal. A carefully chosen glass brought out unexpected layers in each dish, proving once again that Madeiran hospitality knows how to coax the best from its guests.
Genuine Commitment to Sustainability
What sets Oxalis at Casa Velha do Palheiro apart is its genuine commitment to sustainability. It is not a marketing slogan, but a philosophy lived out daily.
By sourcing directly from their gardens and local farms, they reduce their environmental impact while supporting the island's community of growers. This dedication places Oxalis firmly among the leading examples of sustainable restaurants in Madeira.
A Connection to Madeira's Heritage
Dining at Oxalis is about more than food; it is about experiencing Madeira's history and heritage. Knowing that the building used to host the 2nd Count of Carvalhal's lavish gatherings adds a romantic layer to the evening. There is still an undeniable sense of occasion when you dine here. In many ways, Oxalis carries forward the spirit of the estate: where once the Count celebrated with music and feasts, the restaurant now honours Madeira with flavours and stories served on a plate.
Final Thoughts: Why You Should Visit Oxalis
As the evening came to an end, I was very happy that my first encounter with Madeira on this trip had been here. Oxalis at Casa Velha do Palheiro is not only a destination for food lovers but a reflection of what modern gastronomy should strive to be: respectful of tradition and mindful of sustainability.
It deserves recognition among the best restaurants in Funchal, offering travellers a dining experience that is as meaningful as it is delicious. In a world where fine dining can sometimes feel detached from its origins, Oxalis reminds us that true culinary artistry begins in the soil, the sea, and the stories of a place.
Planning Your Visit to Oxalis Restaurant
If you're planning a trip to the island and are seeking fine dining in Madeira at its best, Oxalis should be on your list. It is a rare place where history, hospitality, and the seasonal cuisine of Madeira come together in harmony – and if time allows, try to stay the night at Casa Velha do Palheiro for the complete experience.
