A very special event celebrating nature and active tourism takes place in the archipelago of Madeira at the beginning of October. The Madeira Nature Festival happens every year, offering a week packed with outdoor adventures that not only promote physical activity and the spirit of adventure but also raise awareness about environmental conservation and sustainability. The extensive programme includes activities such as hiking on the beautiful trails, canyoning adventures in our creeks, yoga and wellness activities, and even boat trips along our magnificent coastline. This article is precisely about one of those trips. Come with us for a ride along the south coast, aboard a 'Xavelha'.
We left Funchal towards Câmara de Lobos Bay, just a few minutes before eight in the morning. This was a working day that started a little earlier than usual, but the enthusiasm we felt outweighed the lost hour of sleep. We were so caught up in the excitement that we missed the best motorway exit to our destination, but as they say 'All roads lead to Rome', and the same goes for Câmara de Lobos. We arrived at our destination with plenty of time to spare! We were to meet at the pier at 8.50 a.m. for our boat trip. For those who are more used to visiting this bay at night, for dinner or a drink, the charm that this place has in the morning can go unnoticed for a lifetime.
Strolling around the picturesque streets, with most of the shops yet to open, enjoying the slow awakening of the town in its morning calm, brought us an incredible serenity. We walked along the seafront, skirting the bay until we reached the pier steps. The still shy rays of the sun lit up our anxious faces, as we gazed at the truly unique beauty of the coastline and decided whether or not to take a seasickness pill. At the top of the pier stairs, we were guessing which 'Xavelha' would take us for a ride. We should explain that 'Xavelha' is the Madeiran name given to the small traditional fishing boats used by the fishermen of Câmara de Lobos.
Meanwhile, two couples in their fifties also arrived at the pier to take the boat trip. The way they said 'Bom dia' made it clear that we’d be hanging out with Madeirans for the next few hours, but it also showed us that the Nature Festival is a celebration for everyone—visitors and locals alike. Meanwhile, we could see an extremely colourful boat coming towards us, stopping by the pier: 'Careful with the stairs, they're slippery', Mr. Rui Gonçalves warned us, as he quickly hopped overboard, barefoot and with the kind of agility only a man of the sea has, offering his arm to help us all make it from the stairs to the boarding platform. Even with the sea being incredibly calm, the board seemed to have a mind of its own, bouncing around with an excited shake. We looked at each other and a telepathic thought hit us: 'It's a good thing we took the pill', our minds communicated. Just as we were about to hop into the boat, one of the ladies decides she no longer want to go on the trip. 'It rocks a lot and I get very sick', she said in distress. It took quite a few words of encouragement from the 'captain' and the reassurance that the boat would rock much less than the board, especially once it set sail, to convince her to get on board.
Leaving the Bay couldn't have been more special. On top of all the stunning scenery and the sight of dozens of little boats, much smaller than ours, gently bobbing on the calm sea, we were lucky enough to get a 'goodbye' from a sea lion as it swam into the Câmara de Lobos cove. 'This one shows up quite often', Mr. Rui said calmly, as the excitement to catch a glimpse of the sea lion spread throughout his boat.
After our encounter with this protected species, we settled back into our seats and started enjoying the peaceful journey ahead. The day was just ideal for the boat trip. Although it was the beginning of October and the middle of autumn, it was a perfect summer morning. The plan was to go as far as Ribeira Brava and back, travelling along part of Madeira's beautiful south coast. The 'Xavelha' trips are also a famous attraction in the municipality and one of the most popular activities during the Nature Festival. As we admired the landscape, with its towering cliffs and occasional hidden beaches - perfect little retreats if only there was access - Mr. Rui shared some interesting stories about 'São João de Deus' with us. It turned out that the boat we were traveling on dated back to 1936, although little or almost nothing of its original structure remained. Still, it had a life full of adventures.
For many years it was a fishing boat, just like the ones standing next to it at dawn in the cove. Decades dedicated to tuna fishing, and many more to swordfish, earned it an invitation to represent Madeira and its fishing tradition at Expo'98 - the Lisbon International Exhibition - which took place in 1998 under the theme 'The Oceans'. 'São João de Deus' crossed the sea to Lisbon, a journey that Mr. Rui remembers taking an entire week. At the time, there were doubts about whether a traditional fishing boat could handle the 520-nautical-mile journey, but the truth is it did, and then returned to tell the story. Conversation after conversation, we passed in front of the Fajãs of Cabo Girão.
The cable car cabins linking Rancho to Fajã were a clear sign of where we were. Did you know that this means of transport was originally used to help with agriculture? The land by the sea can be really fertile, and there it stretches for hundreds of metres. The long seaside promenade makes it easy for both farmers and visitors to reach Cabo Girão beach and its farming area, located right beneath the famous Cabo Girão viewpoint with its impressive 580-metre-high cliff, the tallest in Europe. Seeing this promontory from the sea is almost more intimidating than standing at the top of its nearly 600 metres.
The sea remained calm and ours alone, with no movement in our view line, until another sea lion burst out of the calm, translucent waters. This sighting was less clear and more fleeting than the first... this was probably a shier sea lion, but Mr. Rui managed to size it: 'this one is bigger than the one we saw at the Bay', he revealed. Bigger or not, it didn't show up again, so we continued at 'Xavelha' speed to yet another Fajã.
The crystal-clear sea almost mirrored the landscape as we approached Fajã dos Padres, a secluded Eden, despite becoming increasingly well-known to everyone. Watching from São João de Deus, it's almost like a green plantation floating in the sea. There are fruit trees, flowers... an oasis of life that seems to spring from the pebbles, making the landscape even more special. We all felt like staying there, but the trip continued. We also passed by Calhau da Lapa, which is currently inaccessible, before making a U-turn at Ribeira Brava beach. On the return trip, we ventured further from the coast, giving us a stunning overview of the sheer grandeur of our coastline. It was now 11.30 a.m. and the mild morning had turned into a very hot day. We stretched our hands out of the boat and tried to touch the water… it was incredible! The perfect temperature for a swim that we couldn't take, but that all the holidaymakers on our beautiful island would be lucky enough to enjoy.
As the trip was coming to an end and we arrived in Câmara de Lobos, our 'captain' proudly announced: 'Welcome to the most beautiful bay in the world'. We jumped off the boat with the certainty that Madeira offers not only breathtaking landscapes but also incomparable moments of connection with nature and the traditions of its people.
The crystal-clear sea almost mirrored the landscape as we approached Fajã dos Padres, a secluded Eden, despite becoming increasingly well-known to everyone. Watching from São João de Deus, it's almost like a green plantation floating in the sea. There are fruit trees, flowers... an oasis of life that seems to spring from the pebbles, making the landscape even more special. We all felt like staying there, but the trip continued. We also passed by Calhau da Lapa, which is currently inaccessible, before making a U-turn at Ribeira Brava beach. On the return trip, we ventured further from the coast, giving us a stunning overview of the sheer grandeur of our coastline. It was now 11.30 a.m. and the mild morning had turned into a very hot day. We stretched our hands out of the boat and tried to touch the water… it was incredible! The perfect temperature for a swim that we couldn't take, but that all the holidaymakers on our beautiful island would be lucky enough to enjoy.
As the trip was coming to an end and we arrived in Câmara de Lobos, our 'captain' proudly announced: 'Welcome to the most beautiful bay in the world'. We jumped off the boat with the certainty that Madeira offers not only breathtaking landscapes but also incomparable moments of connection with nature and the traditions of its people.
