One of the things we enjoy most in our social life is dining out, especially trying food from different countries. Food in Madeira is heavily influenced by what nature provides in abundance on the island, so fruit, vegetables, and fish can be found on the menus of its many restaurants. There are some unique flavours in Madeiran traditional cuisine—bolo do caco, which is a circular garlic bread, and grilled limpets served with garlic, butter, and lemon are two staples served all across the archipelago.
As a tourist destination, the restaurants in Madeira cater to every palate and every budget; there really is something for everyone. Our lasting memory is how the produce tastes as it did many years ago before the intervention of supermarkets. The food tastes as though it has been picked from the ground, plucked from the trees, or caught fresh from the sea and arrived on your plate that very same day.
The island is also home to three Michelin-starred restaurants, all of which can be found in Funchal, and we had tables booked for two of them. This was to be a special highlight of our holiday. We would be dining at the one Michelin-starred William restaurant in Reid’s Hotel and the two Michelin-starred Il Gallo d’Oro at the Cliff Bay Hotel. It was time to put on some nice clothes for a night of sophistication and fine dining at its very best.
An Evening at William
We first visited the William restaurant, named after the founder of Reid’s Hotel, Mr. William Reid. Upon entering the restaurant, we were greeted by the maître d’ with a very warm welcome and shown to our table, which had breathtaking sea views from Reid’s elevated position overlooking the city of Funchal. I have to say, this must be the best view from a dining table, with floor-to-ceiling glass ensuring your vantage point is uninterrupted. As night falls, seeing Funchal lit by streetlights is unforgettable.
The decor seemed from an Art Deco period, with mahogany walls, brass balustrades, and rich white linens adorning the table, all softly lit by candlelight to provide the ambience. It made us smile as we both admired the elegance of the room and the view—and we hadn’t even gotten to the food yet!
We had selected the tasting menu with accompanying wines. The evening started with a visit to our table by the head chef, Luís Pestana. The presence of the man responsible for creating the food was a special moment that added to the occasion. He briefly explained the philosophy of the restaurant and the menu we would soon experience. He told us that all dishes start from a traditional base, influenced by contemporary international cuisine. It was very evident that he had a real passion for what we were being served. The chef visited every table in the restaurant that evening to have that conversation with diners.
Next to the table was the sommelier, who introduced our first wine of the evening and returned before each course with a different wine and an explanation as to why it had been chosen to accompany the dish. As wine lovers, this added hugely to the overall experience at William.
I think it is also important to note how friendly all the staff were. We knew this would be a special evening at William from the moment the first course arrived. A first course of trout from nearby Seixal with fermented cucumber and physalis was a light and fresh start to the evening. Each dish that followed was both a culinary masterpiece and a piece of art served in front of us. The beef tenderloin with laurel, corn, and chestnut was a real highlight, as was the chocolate dessert, which was a rich indulgence to finish the evening, paired with a delightful Madeira wine.
The Magic of Il Gallo d’Oro
We spent two weeks in Madeira and split our visits to the Michelin-starred restaurants across those weeks. This gave us a little time to savour the experience at William and look forward to another culinary adventure at the two Michelin-starred Il Gallo d’Oro, the home of chef Benoît Sinthon since 2004.
Once again, the restaurant enjoys an incredible location at the Cliff Bay Hotel. The decor is far more contemporary and minimalist. We were escorted to our table with an explanation of what we would soon experience. We had chosen the tasting menu with accompanying wines, which, for wine lovers, elevates the evening.
The menu explores traditional Madeiran produce, but the interpretation is quite unique, and each dish is revealed with the drama of a silver cloche. The evening at Il Gallo d’Oro is a sensory overload, combining artistry, aroma, visual, and taste sensations that leave you grasping for superlatives to best describe each plate. Following each course, there is a sense of excitement for what follows, with each dish carefully curated to take your taste buds on a journey from the first to the last course.
Obviously, the food plays the lead role at Il Gallo d’Oro, but the support act of the maître d’, sommelier, and waitstaff ensures the experience reaches a far greater level than you can imagine.
Choosing breads, butters, salts, and steak knives is part of the performance and intricate detail that defines two Michelin-starred cuisine. Even the choice of the plate for each dish was something quite unique.
We had eight very individual dishes, each one mind-blowing in taste and stunning in presentation. It was food and theatre combined, giving us four hours of entertainment. It was truly a memorable evening that my wife and I will never forget.
Once again, Madeira delivers, and we can't wait to try Madeira's most recently Michelin-awarded restaurant, Desarma, located on the top floor of the Hotel The Views Baia.
Andy Sullivan
