When it comes to fine dining in Funchal, Desarma is the restaurant everyone is talking about right now. Set on top of the luxurious The Views Baía in Madeira’s vibrant capital, this Michelin-starred restaurant offers a true culinary journey from the moment you walk in. A meal that blew me away.
Our evening began the moment we entered the lobby of the Views Baía Hotel. We were warmly greeted by the restaurant manager, who welcomed us to the top floor of the hotel, where the restaurant awaits. We were invited to enjoy a glass of champagne on the terrace, and from there, we knew we were off to a good start.
The team invited us for a brief tour of the kitchen, a rare and exciting behind-the-scenes look, and one that the team are clearly proud of. Dry-aged and smoked fish hang on the walls, in-season fruits are laid out for the evening’s desserts and the largest oven I’ve ever seen, which was installed via a crane, takes centre stage in the open kitchen. We watched as the chefs moved with precision and passion, and it gave us a deeper appreciation for what was to come.
Originally, we had booked the Chef’s Battle tasting experience, a nine-course menu, and to our surprise and delight, we were upgraded to the Chef’s Counter, Desarma’s Chef’s table experience, where we would be enjoying twelve “moments.” This was going to be a special gourmet experience in Madeira.
Each course, or “moment,” is different from the restaurant’s other menus as it’s dependent on what chef Octávio Freitas sources that day from his producers. Whether it’s shrimps from the Algarve or raspberries from a local producer.
Chef Octávio Freitas’ focus on different areas and times of Madeira encompasses a variety of dishes, including ancestral wheat bread, black scabbard prepared in different ways, cured tuna (and many other cured fish), and coastline fish.
Smoked seafood is definitely the star of the show at Desarma, and even though there is no tradition of smoking meats on the island, the team at Desarma are changing that with seafood, going through a long process to smoke and age seafood, creating sausages of grouper, catfish, swordfish, squid and many others.
One dish which is their most famous across all menus is ‘Chocolate Stone’ made of Chocolate and Banana from Madeira. This dish is stunning, resembling two stones on the plate, and it's the most delicious dessert I've had during my time in Madeira.
A major highlight of the night was the sommelier, whose wine pairings were spot-on throughout the experience. The wine menu went from Madeiran whites – I don’t really drink red and the team accommodated with stronger whites from the mainland, and even a vintage Madeira that perfectly complemented the desserts. For wine lovers, you’re in good hands with the sommelier who just added to our gourmet experiences in Madeira.
I love a counter seat, and sitting at Desarma’s Chef’s Table was such a special experience. The team worked like an orchestra; we were there for a few hours, which seemed to flow so quickly… It felt immersive, like being part of the performance rather than just a guest. It’s clear to see why Desarma earns its place among the best restaurants in Funchal.
As we finished the last bite of our chocolate stones, I mentioned that I was not prepared for this level of dining on my second night in Madeira. The attention to detail, the world-class cooking, and the sheer creativity on the plate made this a benchmark for fine dining in Funchal.
In a destination increasingly known for its culinary innovation, Desarma is a shining example of what a Michelin-starred restaurant Madeira can offer.
Whether you're a seasoned foodie or someone looking to celebrate a meaningful occasion, Desarma should be at the top of your list of the best restaurants in Funchal. The combination of coastal elegance, local seafood, and generous hospitality makes it a standout not only in Madeira but in the world of fine dining in Funchal as a whole.
For anyone seeking unforgettable gourmet experiences in Madeira, Desarma is more than a restaurant; it’s a destination in itself. And if you're lucky enough to land a spot at the Chef’s Bench, prepare yourself for a special evening.
