Our day trip to Camacha Madeira was more than a scenic escape from Funchal. It was a deep dive into Madeira's culinary traditions. A mix of history, warm hospitality, and a feast of unforgettable flavors. Nestled in the hills just east of Funchal, Camacha has a reputation for being one of the island’s most traditional villages, and it lived up to every expectation.
We arrived mid-morning, greeted by cool mountain air (a change from the hot sun down below) and the quiet charm of village life. Sandra, a local celebrity, famous in Madeira for her culinary project called Biqueira, was showing us around for the day.
As we strolled through the centre of Camacha Madeira, we learned that this was the site of Portugal’s very first football match, played in 1875. The game was introduced by Harry Hinton, a Madeiran-born Englishman, reflecting the longstanding British influence on the island.
Not far from the village church, we found ourselves in a cozy little bar café called “O Morgado”. I almost felt like I was the first tourist to step foot inside… and I was welcomed with open arms. We enjoyed a cortado, though not the coffee you might expect. This cortado is a hearty drink made with toasted barley “coffee,” sweet Madeira wine, sugar, and a twist of lemon peel, served hot. Popular in the more mountainous parts of Madeira, it is both comforting and somewhat moreish.
We jumped across the road to meet the local butcher, and his operation ran beneath his store. An espetada restaurant where locals join and cook their own espetada on the open fire grill. Incredible to watch.
Our next stop was one of the highlights of the day, visiting a family of weekend bakers who prepare traditional bread and bolo do caco right in their home kitchen. I’ve never seen an operation like this… I can see why they are so popular on the weekends. These bakers had been up since 2 in the morning, tending to their dough and fire. The bolo do caco, a soft flatbread made with sweet potato, was sizzling away on a frying pan, then moved to the stove. We bought some to take to lunch and were also generously offered a taste of the warm, crusty bread straight from the hearth.
As tradition goes, we were also invited to toast with a shot of ginjinha, a cherry liqueur often served at celebratory gatherings. Though tempting, it was a little too early to join.
From the heart of Camacha Madeira, we made our way up to Rochão, a peaceful rural area where Sandra’s family owns a small quinta. Surrounded by trees, stone paths, animals, and stunning views, it was the perfect setting for a family-style lunch in the Madeira countryside.
There, we met Rui, Sandra’s partner, who had such a passion for his home island. He also worked in the film industry, so we discussed his incredible videos and photography on the island. They really want to celebrate Madeira culinary traditions.
Lunch was also a showcase of Madeira culinary traditions. We began with Gaiado Seco - dry skipjack tuna, served alongside the bread we had tasted earlier. Salty, intense, and my kind of food, I can see why it’s popular on the island.
The main course was a hearty “Carne na Panela”, a slow-cooked beef stew, paired with esmagada de batata, a mashed potato dish that is typical of Santa do Porto Moniz, on Madeira’s remote northwestern coast.
It is worth noting that Sandra and Rui spend much of their time visiting rural villages in Madeira to explore food traditions for their joint project, “A Biqueira”. They collect and preserve regional recipes, discuss these recipes with older generations, and create awareness around them. Their work not only preserves culinary heritage but also breathes new life into it by sharing it with others. I truly admire the work and love they have for the island.
To round off our meal, we were served Bolo de Família - a dense, sweet family cake made from a closely guarded recipe passed down through generations. It was the kind of dessert that tells a story with every bite. Truly exceptional.
No proper Madeiran lunch would be complete without drinks that tell their own tale. We sampled Laranjada, the island’s iconic orange soda launched in 1872. It predates Coca-Cola by 14 years, making it the oldest soft drink in Portugal and one of the oldest in the world still in production. It reminded me of soft drinks from my early childhood.
We also tried a batch of homemade cider from Rui. Crisp and slightly dry, made from apples grown all around where we were sitting. And finally, dessert would not be dessert without a small glass of Madeira wine, the perfect ending.
As we said our goodbyes and made our way back down the winding roads, we felt grateful for more than just the delicious food. This trip to Camacha Madeira was a reminder of how deeply connected people are to their land, their recipes, and their stories. It also reinforced the joy of visiting rural villages in Madeira for food traditions. If you are ever in search of home-cooked meals, local life, and a day off the beaten track, look no further than a family-style lunch in the Madeira countryside. The island’s rich culinary traditions are waiting to be discovered.
