Looking back, it was such a good day. We set off early for Ponta do Pargo, perched on Madeira’s far western tip, drawn by rugged cliffs and sweeping seascapes. I wandered around with my camera and discovered the Ponta do Pargo Lighthouse.
Standing over the crashing Atlantic waves, it offers panoramic views, fresh spray, and a reminder of the island’s wild edge. Nearby, we passed land where a new golf course is under construction – I can’t wait to see how it will blend sea views with the natural beauty.
Arrival at Casas da Levada
After winding along steep roads and passing small farms, we arrived at Casas da Levada Madeira, a charming agritourism gem tucked in the hills. The entrance is unpretentious, framed by stones, flowers, and aged trees.
As we drove in, lush gardens unfolded before us: bursts of colour from pinks, oranges, and yellows, vines, fruit-laden trees, and organic vegetable plots. The air was fresher and cooler, carrying the scent of the gardens and the Atlantic beyond.
We were greeted warmly by Joaquim and his mother, part of the property’s family, whose gracious and unhurried hospitality immediately set the tone.
Exploring the Gardens and Villas
Inside, the magic continues. Six individual villas sit among greenery, each with ocean views and surrounded by levadas – those narrow irrigation channels that thread Madeira’s terrain – and the Laurissilva forest.
Animals wander nearby, organic vegetable beds invite you to sniff and taste, and vibrant flowers catch your eye at every turn. A shimmering infinity pool seems to spill toward the sea. The entire property exudes peace: colour, scent, quietness, the soft murmurs of wind through leaves, and distant ocean sounds.
The Hobbit Bar
One highlight is the Hobbit Bar, a whimsical structure with a living green roof and organic shapes. Despite its fairytale exterior, the interiors are luxurious.
Guests can build their own drinks and settle in to watch the sunset fall over the ocean through the bar’s circular doorway – an intimate and magical experience.
A Private Chef Experience
We were lucky enough to enjoy a three-course lunch prepared by Chef Iain McBride, a Scottish chef living on the island. At Casas da Levada, his cuisine elevates the dining experience beyond standard B&B fare. Using local produce and global techniques, he creates dishes that feel both personal and immersive. Chef Iain explained how each dish connects to Madeira’s culture and his own Scottish roots, turning every bite into a story.
His attention to detail adapts each meal to the moment: rustic outdoor farm-style gatherings like ours or more refined, plated rooftop dinners in Funchal. Dining here is an example of Private Chef Madeira at its finest – personal, memorable, and deeply connected to the surroundings.
Endémica Cider: A Taste of the Land
Equally distinctive is the property’s small-batch cider, Endémica. Made from the rare variety of pears from Ponta do Pargo, harvested from the family orchard, it reflects the local soil, climate, and heritage.
Crisp and aromatic, with notes of dried fruit and citrus peel, it’s a true taste of Madeira. Sipped at sunset, with the Atlantic glowing orange on the horizon, it becomes a moment to remember — a sensory connection to the land and its traditions.
A True Madeira Farm Experience
Combined, the calm surroundings, flowering gardens, animals, ocean views, the Hobbit Bar, Chef Iain McBride’s cuisine, and Endémica cider create a quintessential Madeira farm experience. It’s ideal for anyone wondering what to do in Ponta do Pargo beyond the usual tourist paths: trail walks, agricultural exploration, slowing down, and engaging with nature.
For those seeking solitude, beauty, and flavour, rural hideaways like Casas da Levada reveal one of Madeira’s greatest treasures: its heartfelt hospitality. That warmth extends to the table, making a private chef experience an irresistible choice.
Thank you to Chef Iain McBride and the whole family for a truly special day.
