The best surprises happen when you least expect. This sentence defines my visit to Madeira's northeastern coast. It was an energetic, authentic, and adrenaline-filled day. This day was so good that it will forever remain in my memory!
When the question is 'what to do in Madeira', the south of the island is often the first choice. While the south is sunnier and more urban, the northeast is wilder, greener, and more authentic. Here, nature takes over with dense forests, impressive cliffs, and villages that preserve ancient traditions. This side of the island breathes a different energy - so I was told, and that's exactly what I found.
Off-road buggy adventure in the mountains of Machico
The day began with an experience full of adrenaline, completely out of the ordinary: a buggy tour of the Funduras area. We were equipped head to toe, ready for anything. As soon as I set off on the trail to Fajã dos Rolos, I realised that this wasn't going to be just any morning! Riding a buggy along these narrow roads and through the Laurissilva forest trails was absolutely unforgettable.
At every turn there was a new surprise, a new dose of adrenaline, puddles of water that we crossed laughing, climbs that took us above the clouds and breathtaking views, revealing the strength of Madeira's landscape – especially at Pico do Furado. It was fun, but also exciting to experience nature so closely and in such a different way. The amount of mud on the buggy and our waterproof suits was matched only by the satisfaction reflected in everyone’s smiles at the end of the tour.
I was also treated with a real history lesson at Machico, the island's birthplace. This is where the Portuguese navigators first landed at the beginning of the 15th century. Imagining the discovery moment, the first steps on Madeiran soil and all the surrounding forest, the fear of the unknown... a perfect morning!
Lunch at Quinta do Furão, in Santana
The intense morning whetted our appetite and was followed by an unforgettable lunch at Quinta do Furão, in Santana. I've stayed there three times (I know, lucky me!) and it's still one of my favourite hotels. Whether you're staying overnight, visiting the gardens, the viewpoints, or eating in one of the restaurants, Quinta do Furão is a must.
I tried different dishes, all delicious, in a very cosy atmosphere. But there's no getting away from the view! From the hotel's viewpoints, we can see the northern coast of Madeira in all its splendour: Imposing cliffs, endless sea and intense green... an almost mystical atmosphere that characterises this side of the island. No photo can fully capture the grandeur of the place.
Surf lesson in Porto da Cruz
After a morning of adrenaline, a delicious lunch and driving to the next activity, nothing beats taking a nap... in the car! All the adrenaline, a full belly, the sun warming up from time to time and the sound of the waves in the background... can you imagine? It was a quick nap, just enough to energise me for the next adventure: a surfing afternoon in Madeira.
Porto da Cruz is known as one of the best surfing spots on the island. I've practised a few times, but I’m still very much a beginner. At Alagoa Beach, the waves are just right, the atmosphere is relaxed, and the scenery... well, that's hard to describe. Being in the water with the board and feeling the majestic Penha d'Águia rising up behind us is something unique. The temperature was perfect – as usual in Madeira.
We weren't just newbies to the sea; there were also experienced surfers, which gave us all plenty of room to have fun. I managed to enjoy every attempt, every wave, every fall and every small success... fun to the very last moment. In the end, I left tired but with the typical smile of someone who wants to repeat the experience.
Porto da Cruz is more than just a pretty fishing village: It's a vibrant place, full of history and with its own identity. A place where culture is alive.
Local flavours at José Pequeno
And speaking of living culture, the day ended in the most authentic way possible: sitting at the table of the legendary José Pequeno, right at Porto da Cruz. There, we had the privilege of tasting two classics that are part of the region's gastronomic identity: dry skipjack tuna and dry wine.
The atmosphere was simple, local, unadorned - precisely what made the experience special. Eating what Madeirans eat, in the same place where they meet, was a unique way to dive deeper into the island's culture. Between conversations, intense flavours and the happy tiredness of a full day, we said goodbye to northeastern Madeira.
Exploring the island's northeastern coast is very worthwhile, and it's much more than just beautiful scenery, in my opinion. It's about feeling nature at its purest, getting to know local traditions, and having unusual experiences. From buggying through Funduras, to having lunch with a view at Quinta do Furão, the surf lesson in Porto da Cruz, and ending with the authentic flavour of dry skipjack, every moment was special in its own way. A very well spent day that I recommend to anyone visiting Madeira.
If there's one thing this day shown us, it's that this side of the island is truly different: wilder, greener, and more connected to its origins. And perhaps that’s exactly what makes it so unforgettable.
