Funchal feels to us like a modern fairytale, where small, cobbled streets mingle with historical buildings and a stunning backdrop of the mountains. Looking at Funchal from a viewpoint, it’s almost as if you’re looking at a real-life painting, with orange roofs, the glittering Atlantic Ocean and green mountains hugging the coastal town.
After a few months of living in Calheta, we wanted to change our surroundings, and with Christmas and New Year's Eve coming up, we thought there was no better timing to move to Funchal… and we were right!
We explored Funchal City properly for the first time on a warm December afternoon. Oh, how much we love these warm winter days... Where in Europe is it possible to walk in a T-shirt during winter? We started our day at the beautiful Parque de Santa Catarina, a tranquil park with a large lawn and lake. We walked around and saw countless species of trees, flowers and herbs. Even in winter, Madeira is so green! We sat at a bench for a little while, overlooking the port of Funchal and beautiful bay. It was a lovely start to our afternoon exploring the city.
We then continued our way to Palácio de São Lourenço, which is located along the Avenida do Mar. This 16th-century fort is now a military museum and is stunning to see inside and out. We continued our way to the iconic Sé Cathedral which is a Gothic style church dating back to the 1400s. The church has been classified as a National Monument since 1910 and has one of Portugal’s most beautiful ceilings. Of course we had to see it with our own eyes! So, we went inside to admire the artwork and beautiful details of this church. It is mind-blowing how much effort and attention to detail went into making the ceiling!
After exploring the beautiful historic buildings of Funchal, it was time to get some food and explore the “Mercado dos Lavradores”. The bustling Farmers Market is filled with colourful stalls selling all sorts of fruits, vegetables, herbs and fresh fish. We absorbed all the sounds and scents and enjoyed walking around, but we got hungry!
It was now time for an afternoon snack and drink, so we continued our way into the Old Town, also known as “Zona Velha” by the locals. The charming, narrow cobblestone streets, lined with old buildings with lovely terraces and traditional churches, make for a perfect stop. Some of the most picturesque squares and best places to get a drink and meal are near the Corpo Santo Chapel. This area feels very idyllic and has so much history. The Corpo Santo Chapel dates from the 15th century and is one of the few last buildings standing from that century. The other colourful buildings really enhance the ambience of this place. We found a nice table outside with lovely views and ordered some food and drinks before continuing our exploration of the Old Town.
After this short break, we were both ready to walk further and as the sun was slowly disappearing behind the buildings, we chose to make our way to the promenade. Sunset in December is around 6 PM, and because we both love to contemplate it, we were on a mission to find a nice spot to watch the sun disappear. It was a bit past 5 PM when we approached the yellow-coloured Forte de São Tiago. This 18th-century fort provides beautiful views over the city and ocean, and we discovered that its main purpose was to defend Funchal from the pirates’ attacks, which happened often in Madeira.
At this time, the ocean was transforming into a sea of sparkling diamonds as the golden sunlight reflected on its surface. Sunset has always been a special moment for us, and we often take the time to watch it while thinking about our day and life in general. We pause to be present and grateful while taking in the breathtaking views. We found a lovely spot near São Tiago Fort to sit, and observed the last rays of sun disappear into the ocean.
Now it was time for dinner! There are so many restaurants in Funchal that it becomes hard to choose one, but since we were in love with the Old Town, we decided to have dinner there. We made our way through the charming street of Rua de Santa Maria where we spotted beautiful street art adorning some of the walls. We sat in one of the local restaurants and were treated to delicious food and a glass of sangria… It was, indeed, an idyllic dinner.
To end the day as the locals do, we decided to get a poncha after dinner. This traditional alcoholic drink is made from sugar cane rum, orange or lemon juice and honey. We both ordered a different one so we could taste the difference. It was delicious and there was no better way to end this day dedicated to exploring this incredible city that is Funchal.
